Now that you've done a good amount tuning, you are ready to take the car to a dyno for more intensive power increase.
Thank you for your understanding! This gives us both ample time to do the work according to our own schedules (it may not always be a one day turn-around, etc.). This means more timing advance; especially at low-RPM, part-throttle areas of driving. All of this fuel trim data is deleted when power is removed from the battery, which is why you often hear about the PCM having to ?relearn? Only a dyno can tell you for sure. If done wrong, you can seriously damage your engine if you don?t know what you are doing. All injectors have a slight delay, usually in the hundreds of microsend (us) range. This can be another obvious culprit, but can sometimes be partially overlooked depending on the brand of injector. This will make the car run leaner before going into open loop, helping increase gas mileage. If you read my "Tips" page, you will see exactly how it is done. By default, in closed loop, it attempts to get an air:fuel ratio (AFR) of 14.7:1 (or whatever else is specified as the target in the PCM). You can begin another richening upwards ramp from your base power AFR in the RPM table (0.0), from the power peak (stock, 5200RPM) to the max RPM (7000) setting.
For working on your '94 or '95 LT1 PCM, you'll also need the $EE definition file ($19.95).
its job is to pump unburned oxygen into the exhaust, which will then combine with fuel remnants in the catalytic converter, further reducing emissions and getting the converter up to operating temperature much more quickly. Both will use less fuel, which will improve MPG. 14.7:1 is important because that is what is called the stoichiometric ratio for air and gasoline. You'll also need an additional PCM file: $EE for the '94-'95 LT1/L99; $DA3 for the '93 LT1 F-Body; or $DA2 for the '92-'93 Y-Body (Corvette), which will cost you an additional $19.95 from TunerCat. To fine-tune this, simply increase the values and log the car. As you can see with the factory tune, timing levels off around this RPM range. If, for example, you set the RPM value to 4000RPM, then the shift will happen at ~4600RPM, the speed to which the MPH value corresponds. I have never gotten a complete answer from anyone but it seems as if even the learning capability is not complete. I recommend gradual changes, 3% increments is a good rule of thumb, until you get a consistent 12.8:1 reading on the dyno graph all the way through the RPM range. RPM." I, too, have noticed a great effect when substantially increasing timing here (on my 236-242/114 cam). It requires you to have a laptop with Windows 7+ and have or purchase your own tuning kit (ALDL cable/converter box, chip burner and chip for chip-based ECMs, tuning software, and datalogging software), in order to let me tune for you through email. They are divided by TPS %, which again brings you back to tuning via in-car feedback; only you will know what feels best to you.
If you have a '93, you'll also need a memory adapter to piggyback new chips onto your existing PCM ($35), a chip burner/eraser ($85) and blank chips ($5), as their PCMs are not flashed based. You can also look at your MAP and airflow (when using a MAF sensor) values, which will let you know how efficient the combustion is; the more efficient it is the more vacuum will be pulled (= lower kPa values) and the less airflow will be required (lower gm/s reading from MAF). Until those are changed, the PCM uses a short-term modifier which adjusts fueling on the fly depending on O2 sensor feedback.
New/clean O2 sensors can make a huge difference in how well the PCM works (the PCM will read richer than it is when the O2 sensors are fouled).
If it cannot be recovered, the flash chips in the PCM can be replaced by someone else for about $30-$50, check with. Next time the PCM encountered that same RPM/MAP situation, it would look in the table for the appropriate cell and see that ?10% fuel is required. Many set the Max. See this link for more information.
Be sure you click the download buttons for the actual programs, and not any of the unrelated ad banners on the same page. Because of the decrease in vacuum pulled with "bigger" cams, the stock settings for DFCO will never be reached and will need to be increased. You may specify you want an AFR of 12.8:1 at a certain RPM range, but if your MAF sensor is set wrong and detects more or less air than actually is entering your engine, the algorithms used to calculate the AFR you specified will not correct for the error (i.e., you may end up with an actual AFR of 11.8:1 if less air is entering the engine than the MAF is calibrated to detect).
If your car has been running rich for awhile (low MPG, excessive black soot under rear bumper), chances are the O2 sensors will need either cleaned or replaced. Since a dynamometer does not load the engine the same as does the car moving down the track, it is a good idea to tune richer on the dyno, because the greater real-world loads will tend to lean the car out more. The easiest way to lock the TCC at WOT is to use the tables labeled for this; use the calculator listed above to find the MPH at which your engine is near its torque peak and set the TCC to engage then; also be sure to update the "release" table to a value lower than the engage, or you will keep the TCC locked permanently.
Depending on whether you are rich or lean on the first pull, fuel will need to be added or Most often, new camshafts have more valve overlap than stock, which often results in a power increase. If this has been helpful to you, consider clicking the button below to send me a small gift (of your choice) to help maintain this webpage and support me. Find at what kPa and RPM your engine idles and correlate those values to the nearest cells in the VE table (for example, a stock M6 engine will be 30kPa and 800RPM). It's also important to understand how the PCM works, and the terminology used when tuning. Since cranking doesn't take very long, it won't have a large impact on anything, but it's one more table to address. Once you save it, click the "OK" button and you'll return to the main Flashhack window. This can happen with the two front cylinders, so if there is a major difference between some, with one or more reading much lower (over a couple hundred degrees Fahrenheit), then you should consider adding fuel to those first. The ideal way to tune this table is to use an IR thermometer to measure temperature at each cylinder exit and to use the results to tune each cylinder's trim until the temp readings all closely match.
You can have your PCM tuned for a very small price! First make sure your PCM constants are set correctly; things like: This constant (or table in some PCMs) tells the PCM how long to pulse the injectors at various airflow/MAP points. Make sure all parts of the electrical and sensor system are in good condition, including: spark plugs, plug and coil wires, coil, distributor (Opti-Spark for the LT1), ignition module, throttle position sensor (TPS) and IAC valve. This setting tells the PCM how long to expect the injector to take to open once the PCM commands it to pulse. For example, if you're using the Ford SVO/Bosch style, you'll want to multiply their rating by 1.056 (24#=25.34, 30#=31.68, 36#=38.02, 42#=44.35, etc.). Take the square root of the number (to remove the square from "pounds per square inch [psi]), and then multiply that by the new injector's rated flow. When you stomp on the gas, most of you know the PCM commands WOT, or wide open throttle, operation. For WinFlash, you will be asked for a filename right away.
If you aren't using TunerCat, you can just divide the gear size in your current tune (say, 3.23) by your new gear size (say, 3.73). After installing a different cam in your LT1, timing and to a degree also fueling will play an even bigger role in both drivability and power. If a car was equipped with a wide band O2 during closed loop operation, you could see the air/fuel ratio swapping back and forth between 14.4:1 to 15:1 as the PCM adjusts back and forth constantly. Fuel injector offset; for other brands like Bosch/Ford SVO. This can obviously seriously affect where you should set your shift points. On some PCMs that do not allow a setting of stoich AFR, where you would like a leaner or richer AFR overall, you can also use this constant to accomplish that, if you will be running in open loop only (as closed loops systems with no settable AFR will target ~14.7 AFR). With engine changes like cam, heads, etc., this is an especially important area for tuning, with great results achieved in drivability and fuel MPG. Now you should log the car, while driving with all ranges of acceleration, from 800RPM up to around 2000RPM. Power Tuning includes any changes available in Basic, as well as changes for increasing torque and horsepower, increasing MPG, or automatic shifting changes, such as firmness, shift points, and TCC lockup points.
Since first releasing EEHack, Steve (the programmer) eventually split off the reading/flashing portion of the program into its own separate program, Flashhack. Internet connection - you will download the required drivers and software from the Internet using links I will provide. A stock aluminum-headed LT1 should be "717.25" and "24.91," respectively. You should see the numbers for Bytes "Sent" and "Received" increasing. No more downtime, and a fully tuned vehicle! In what RPM range would you like engine braking to occur? Monitor this increase with a scanner/logger and make sure you aren't getting any consistent knock retard. For the Cable Loan kits, I pay to ship the kit to you, and you pay to ship it back (the opposite of the Postal methods). If the PCM senses the combustion is too lean (not enough fuel), it will add fuel and the number will increase (> 128). Without having those set properly at the beginning, fine-tuning via the below will never work properly. The obvious (and safer) option to calibrate your VE and/or MAF tables in the WOT areas is to use a wide-band (WB) O2 sensor. This is an often overlooked setting that will have a tremendous impact on drivability, power and MPG, as it will directly affect the AFR and combustion efficiency. There is no time limit on using these free retunes, but as above, they only apply to your current setup (for fine-tuning), not for accomodating new mods. Installation is like any other Windows program, so once it is installed, open it via the Start menu and proceed below.
If you have an overly lean idle in closed loop after such mods, increasing these values in the appropriate airflow ranges can help a lot!
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